Nabataean tombs at Hegra, sandstone canyons at AlUla and the coral-stone old town of Jeddah, with few other visitors.
Saudi Arabia only opened to leisure visitors in 2019, and it still feels new. The reason most people go is AlUla, in the north-west: a valley of sandstone cliffs and palm groves around Hegra, where the Nabataeans who built Petra carved more than 100 monumental tombs.
We pair AlUla with two cities. In Riyadh, the restored mud-brick citadel of At-Turaif in Diriyah shows where the Saudi state began. In Jeddah, the coral-stone houses of Al-Balad, with their carved wooden balconies, open onto the Red Sea. A week covers all three with domestic flights between them.
Be clear-eyed about the trade-offs. Rules on dress and behaviour are stricter than in the Emirates, alcohol is illegal, and summer is extremely hot. The FCDO currently warns of missile and drone attacks from Yemen on Saudi cities, so read its advice before you commit.
The experiences we plan most often, with the months they are at their best.
Hegra was the Nabataeans' great southern city and is Saudi Arabia's first UNESCO World Heritage site. More than 100 tombs are carved into sandstone outcrops, their facades topped with stepped crowns and eagles. Visits are by timed guided tour from AlUla, so book ahead, and go at the first slot for low light.
AlUla's valley is a maze of wind-carved sandstone. Elephant Rock, a natural arch shaped like its name, is best at dusk, when seating is set out in the sand. The mud-brick Old Town, abandoned last century, has been restored with cafés and small shops. Hike, cycle or ride through the canyons in the cool mornings.
Long before the Nabataeans, the kingdoms of Dadan and Lihyan ruled this valley. At Dadan you can see tombs cut high in the cliff, and nearby Jabal Ikmah is a narrow canyon covered in ancient inscriptions in several scripts. Allow a morning for the pair.
At-Turaif in Diriyah, on the north-western edge of Riyadh, was the first capital of the Saudi dynasty and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its restored palaces and mud-brick walls sit above Wadi Hanifa, with restaurants in the Bujairi quarter looking across. Visit late afternoon and stay for dinner.
North-west of Riyadh, the Tuwaiq escarpment drops away in sheer cliffs above a flat plain that seems to run forever, known locally as the Edge of the World. The drive takes around two hours, the last part off-road, so go with a guide and four-wheel drive. Arrive for sunset and bring a warm layer.
Al-Balad, Jeddah's old town, is a UNESCO World Heritage site of tall coral-stone houses with carved wooden roshan balconies, souqs and small mosques. Walk it in the evening, when it is coolest and liveliest. Then spend time on the Red Sea, where reefs off the coast offer good snorkelling and diving.
In AlUla, choose between resorts tucked into the canyons outside town and simpler hotels nearer the sites. Riyadh has big international hotels; stay near Diriyah if you can. In Jeddah, pick a hotel on the Corniche or head north to the new resorts on the Red Sea coast.
We match each trip in Saudi Arabia to hotels, lodges and villas chosen for the way you travel. Tell us what matters and a specialist will suggest two or three that fit.
Ask for hotel suggestionsThe season for touring is November to March, when AlUla's days are warm and its nights cold enough for a jacket. October and April work with early starts. From May to September the heat is extreme inland and humid on the coast.
Ramadan moves about 11 days earlier each year and falls across February and March in 2027. Sites stay open, but daytime hours change and eating in public is off limits.
Two nights in Riyadh for Diriyah and the Edge of the World, three in AlUla for Hegra and the canyons, and two in Jeddah by the Red Sea. 7 nights.
Fly direct from Heathrow and settle in. Explore At-Turaif in the late afternoon, eat in Bujairi and drive out to the Edge of the World for sunset.
Fly north-west to AlUla. Tour Hegra at first light, see Dadan and Jabal Ikmah, walk the Old Town and watch sunset at Elephant Rock.
Fly to Jeddah. Walk Al-Balad in the evening, then spend a day on the water snorkelling the reefs off the coast.
A final breakfast by the sea, then the direct flight home to Heathrow from King Abdulaziz International Airport in Jeddah.
Practical notes checked against their sources. For entry and safety, the FCDO advice for Saudi Arabia (opens in a new tab) is always the authority.
British Airways and Saudia fly direct from Heathrow to Riyadh, and British Airways to Jeddah, each in about six and a half hours. AlUla is a domestic flight from either city.
UK passport holders need a tourist visa, available online or on arrival. Read the FCDO entry requirements (opens in a new tab) before you book.
The FCDO travel advice (opens in a new tab) currently reports missile and drone attacks from Yemen on several Saudi cities and advises against travel near the Yemen border. Check it before booking and again before you fly.
Read the FCDO entry requirements for Saudi Arabia (opens in a new tab)
Some UK medicines are controlled in Saudi Arabia and need paperwork from your doctor; the FCDO health page (opens in a new tab) sets out what to carry. See TravelHealthPro (opens in a new tab) for general advice. Heat stroke is a real risk, so drink and rest in the shade.
TravelHealthPro advice for Saudi Arabia (opens in a new tab)
The currency is the Saudi riyal. Card and phone payments are accepted almost everywhere, even at small cafés, but carry some cash for tips.
stc sells prepaid visitor packages that you can register with your passport and visa. Coverage is strong in cities and at AlUla, but patchy in remote desert.
Tipping is appreciated but rarely expected. If a restaurant bill has no service charge, 10 per cent is generous. Guides and drivers are the people to tip properly.
Loose-fitting clothing for men and women in public, covering the elbows and falling below the knees. Female visitors do not have to wear an abaya or cover their hair, although a scarf is needed at mosques. Swimwear is fine at resort pools and beaches. The FCDO and Visit Saudi both set out the current dress code.
Yes. Hegra was built by the same Nabataean civilisation, but the tombs stand in open desert rather than a gorge, and you see them in small guided groups. AlUla also has older sites, canyon landscapes and very good hotels. Seeing both shows how far the Nabataean world reached.
The FCDO currently reports missile and drone attacks from Yemen on cities including Riyadh and Jeddah, and advises against travel near the Yemen border. Read its advice before you book, check it again before you fly and make sure your insurance is valid. We will talk you through the options.
Yes, though the pace changes. Eating and drinking in public during daylight is not allowed, some restaurants close until sunset and site hours may shift. Evenings are lively. In 2027 Ramadan is expected to run from about 8 February to 8 March, so a trip in late November or January avoids it.
Tell us a little and a specialist will reply with ideas, dates that work and a price. Best months: November to February.
Petra at opening time, a night under the stars in Wadi Rum and a float in the Dead Sea, five hours from London.
Wadis you can swim through, mud-brick forts and a night in the dunes: Arabia as a road trip, seven hours from Heathrow.
The pyramids and the Grand Egyptian Museum, then the Nile between Luxor and Aswan by dahabiya, five hours from London.
