Amandari opened in 1989, designed by the architect Peter Muller, and a lot of what Bali resorts now copy started here: thatched pavilions, walled courtyards and a pool shaped like a rice terrace. What cannot be copied is the setting. The resort sits above a village shrine and the villagers still walk through reception with their offerings.
This is where we send people who want the cultural side of Bali properly. Gamelan players perform beside the restaurant at dusk, children from Kedewatan teach Balinese dance, and the team can arrange temple visits and a Melukat water blessing. Ubud centre is a short drive away when you want it.
It is not a beach hotel, and it is not a party. The pavilions are dark-wooded and traditional rather than sleek, and evenings are quiet. Pair it with a few nights on the coast if you need sand as well as rice fields.