Reschio is the Bolza family's life's work: three decades of restoring a castle and the farmhouses around it on a 3,700-acre estate of woods and meadows. The hotel rooms are inside the castle walls and no two are alike. Some are grand, some are small with windows built for defence rather than views, and the family's own design studio has furnished them with a lightness of touch that stops it ever feeling like a museum.
The estate is the draw. Count Antonio's Spanish horses live here, and guests can take lessons in the covered Teatro Equestre or ride out through the nature reserve; children learn on ponies. There are tennis courts, two gyms, e-bikes, a lake to row on and walking trails through old woodland, and the Bathhouse in the former wine cellars is one of the most atmospheric spas we know.
It is deep countryside, so plan on a car or the hotel's drivers; Perugia, Florence and Rome airports are all in range. Travellers who want to walk out of the door into a hill town for dinner will find that a drive away. For families who ride, or anyone who wants Umbria at its most considered, it is hard to beat.