Gora Kadan stands on the grounds of the Kan’in-no-miya villa, a summer retreat of the Imperial family that served as an Imperial residence until 1948. It is the ryokan we suggest to first-timers who want the full experience of hot spring water, kaiseki dinners and yukata in the corridors, without a long journey from Tokyo.
The hot spring water flows freely, and the rooms with their own open-air baths are worth the extra for the privacy alone. We would book two nights, arrive by early afternoon, and spend the time between the bath and the table. Hakone’s galleries, the ropeway and Lake Ashi are all within reach for a morning out.
Hakone is popular, and the roads and trains fill up at weekends and in autumn, so we plan midweek stays where we can. Anyone after a beach or a lively evening will be restless here. Two nights suits most people better than a long stay.