Arashiyama is one of the busiest corners of Kyoto by day, which is exactly why Hoshinoya works. You check in at a boat lounge near the Togetsu-kyo Bridge and the hotel’s boat takes you about 15 minutes upriver, away from the crowds, to a cluster of wooden buildings on the far bank. Every one of the 25 rooms looks over the Oi River and Mount Ogura.
Stay two or three nights and use it to see western Kyoto at the edges of the day. Walk the bamboo grove before the day-trippers arrive, then come back for the incense ceremony and a kaiseki dinner. In November the maples on the hillside opposite turn red and the river is at its best.
It suits couples who want a ryokan with modern comforts. It is less convenient for central Kyoto: Gion is a long taxi ride away, and the boat timetable sets the rhythm of arrivals. There is no pool or gym to speak of, so this is somewhere to slow down rather than exercise.