Lamai sits in among the granite boulders of the Kogakuria Kopje, looking out across the northern Serengeti towards Kenya. The rooms are open at the front, so you wake to the plains without getting out of bed, and the main area and pool are built into the rock rather than on top of it. It is one of the few places where the building genuinely disappears from a distance.
From July to October this is where the migration herds cross the Mara River, and the crossing points are close. Outside those months the resident game stays: lion, leopard and buffalo are around all year, and the green season is quiet with noticeably lower rates. Nomad also has permission to walk here, which is unusual inside a national park.
It suits couples and families who want the crossings with character and good food rather than polish. Lamai Private, four rooms with its own pool and team, works well for a family or a group of friends. The camp closes from mid-March to the end of May, and anyone who wants walls, glass and a full spa would be happier at Sasakwa.